Going Out in Paris

Paris Internationale 2018
 Berthillon Glacier
 Lionel Poilâne († 2002)
 Patisserie Tomo
 Dakota Johnson leaving Café Verlet
 Berthillon Glacier
 Jacques Genin
 Epicerie Roellinger
 Mariage Frères
 Odeur de Sainteté
 Astier de Villatte
 Marché des Enfants Rouges
 Maison Victor Hugo in Paris

It is that time of the year again when the whole art world descends on the City of Lights for FIAC and Paris Internationale. Paris hardly needs any introduction: It is one of the planet's most desired and visited destinations, synonymous with food, culture, fashion, design, and architecture. So instead of burying yourself in the art fairs, take time to enjoy the treasure trove this picture-perfect city has to offer. Eugenia Lai shares her favourite spots, organised by arondissements.






2 Rue Clément, 75006

The temple of breakfast. The only place in Paris that serves breakfast all day long. Enjoy your viennoiseries with artisanal jam, homemade muesli, and fluffy scrambled eggs in a beautiful space designed by DIMORESTUDIO’s alum Fabrizio Casiraghi.




Poilâne Bakery
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006
38 Rue Debelleyme, 75003 
49 Boulevard de Grenelle, 75015

This is France's most famous bakery. Restaurants across the country even advertise the fact that they too serve this king of breads. Locals queue for fresh country miches, flaky-crusted apple tarts, and buttery shortbread biscuits.




La Fontaine de Belleville
31-33, Rue Juliette-Dodu, 75010

At this charming café owned by the beloved roaster Belleville Brûlerie, take a seat on their sun-drenched terrace and enjoy excellent coffee with a tartine, soft-boiled eggs with "soldiers", or homemade muesli with fruit.




Du Pain et des Idées 
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010

My absolute favorite bakery in Paris. Everything is delicious, but if you must choose, try their wildly popular pain des amies and heavenly escargot pastries.  




14 Rue Ternaux, 75011

A gluten-free bakery that will delight even hardcore bread lovers.




Blé Sucré
7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012

Start your day with the best madeleines and kouign-amann in town with a cafe au lait.




Boulangerie Maison M'Seddi
215 Boulevard Raspail, 75014

Winner of this year's best baguette competition, and just steps away from Fondation Cartier and Institut Giacometti.






10 Rue Saint-Florentin, 75001 

As the oldest Japanese confectionary that established itself in Paris in the 1980s, this is a beautiful shop and tea salon that serves refined and delicious bento lunches and exquisite traditional pastries.




Le Bougainville 
5 Rue de la Banque, 75002 

It’s hard to find bistros like this in Paris anymore. One of my all-time favorites, this place serves solid, hearty, classic bistro fares. The decor has remained unchanged since the 50s, with a Formica bar and tables, red faux leather banquettes, and old-school parquet flooring.  




Le Petit Vendôme 
8 Rue Capucines, 75002

Another no-frills Formica bistro that serves reliable hearty bistro fares such as duck confit and pork trotters, but their signature dishes are their Auvergne sandwiches which they call casse-croûte and are made with a choice of garlic saucisson, country ham, Saint-Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert, andouille, or liver confit…




15 Rue Saint-Augustin, 75002

At this joint by Le Chateaubriand alum Frédéric Peneau, gourmet kebab is offered with homemade spelt bread and meat from the star butcher Hugo Desnoyer. But the real star of the kebab is the sauce – slather yours with the white (fromage frais and horseradish) or green (green tomato and spicy pepper). 




Le Pas Sage 
145 Rue Saint-Denis, 75002

Charming little restaurant with an inventive menu in the elegant Passage du Grand Cerf.




22 Rue des Ecouffes, 75004 

I am addicted to this Israeli eatery. The charred whole cauliflower, fish sandwiches (both the poisson épicé and the poisson doré) and boeuf bourguignon are to die for.  




25 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004 

"Tavline" means spices in Hebrew and that's the focus of this cosy restaurant that serves dishes such as roasted beets drizzled with honey cream or tahini, shakshukas sprinkled with feta, and a hearty leg of lamb with slow-cooked shallots and ras el hanout.




Breizh Café
109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004

True Breton-style galettes made with the famous Bordier butter, better known as the best butter in the world.




Avant comptoir de la mer
3 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006 

Seafood bar with a relaxed old-school atmosphere that serves creative tapas-style dishes such as fish ceviche with green apples and cucumber; tuna tartare with raspberry, buckwheat and coriander; and Palamos shrimp carpaccio.




Urfa Durum 
58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010

A hole-in-the-wall sandwich joint that serves exceptional Kurdish sandwiches – simple but delicious. Arugula, red onion, tomato, and perfectly grilled lamb served in freshly baked flat bread. 






47 Rue de Richelieu, 75001

Unfussy, well-prepared, French cooking using market-fresh ingredients.




La Bourse et La Vie
12 Rue Vivienne, 75002

Daniel Rose's twenty-nine-seat eatery near the Palais Royal serves modern takes on French bistroclassics such as pot-au-feu and steak frites.




Restaurant L'Ilôt
4 Rue de la Corderie, 75003 

Head to this little charming seafood restaurant in the trendy northern Marais neighbourhood for shellfish – fresh, smoked, or marinated – or opt for a big plateau des fruits de mer to share. The extra bonus? You won't pay Parisian prices. 




Chez Nenesse 
17 Rue de Saintonge, 75003

One of my favourite traditional bistros that serves classic hearty bistro fares such as cassolette of snails, Lyonnais quenelles, braised calf's head with gribiche sauce (made of chopped boiled eggs, gherkins, capers, and herbs), and a killer pear charlotte.




Les Enfants Rouges
9 Rue de Beauce, 75003 

A small cosy bistro in the Marais that serves seasonally inspired Franco-Japanese fare. 




55 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006

An intimate and cheerful neo-bistro that has a uncompromising natural wine selection and a surprising seasonal menu that changes daily.




Mercerie Mullot 
19 rue Bréa, 75006

Only blocks away from the Luxembourg Park, this cosy charming restaurant serves some of the best and freshest seafood in Paris. 




Le Pantruche
3 Rue Victor Massé, 75009

One of the best modern bistros in Paris turning out dishes like celery root soup, oyster tartare, and a standout côte de cochon.




Restaurant Belle Maison
4 Rue de Navarin, 75009

Named after a beach on the Ile d’Yeu, this trendy breezy neo-bistro serves creative seafood-focussed dishes such as sea urchin scrambled eggs, ceviche of John Dory dressed with blood orange and arugula pesto, and crab cannelloni infused with ginger, lime, and tom kha.




92 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010

A pocket-size restaurant with an open kitchen run a by a Japanese chef trained at some of France's top restaurants (Taillevent, Agape, Robuchon) serving creative French dishes with a Japanese flair. 




80 Rue de Charonne, 75011

One of the hottest tables in Paris serving delicious market-driven contemporary French dishes with minimalist descriptions such as “Line-Caught Tuna/Raspberries/Tomato Water” and “Pigeon/Beets/Morello Cherries".




Le Servan 
32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 

A chic beloved neo-bistro run by Tatiana Levha, the most exciting female chef in Paris, serving French classic cuisine with unexpected twists.




Do et Riz
31 Rue de Cotte, 75012

A charming Vietnamese canteen that offers a roster of classics using ingredients sourced daily from the nearby Aligre Market. Either make a reservation or be prepared to queue out into the street.




21 Rue Saint-Nicolas, 75012

This small trendy restaurant with an open kitchen offers inventive and bold Franco-Japanese tasting menus with cocktail pairings.




Le Cette
7 Rue Campagne Première, 75014 

A charming bistro with simple, tasteful decor run by a Japanese chef who pays homage to traditional bistro cooking.




Restaurant Quedubon
22 Rue du Plateau, 75019

Near the beautiful Parc des Buttes Chaumont, QueduBon is a bistro, a wine bar and a cave all in one. It serves exceptional hearty offal-focussed French classics accompanied by an impressive wine list populated by natural wines, which are all the rage in Paris these days.




Le Baratin
3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 

A cheerful little bistro that's become a Belleville institution serves hearty and heartfelt fares with a twist. It also has an amazing organic wine list.




Les Grands Bains
14 Rue Denoyez, 75020

With an ever-changing chalkboard menu of small plates and another impressive natural wine list, this laid-back restaurant is great for sharing.








Patisserie Tomo (Franco-Japanese)
11 Rue Chabanais, 75002 


Jacques Genin 
133 Rue de Turenne, 75003 (with tea salon)
27 Rue de Varenne, 75007 (shop without salon)


Carl Marletti
51 Rue Censier, 75005


Sadaharu Aoki (Franco-Japanese)
35 rue de Vaugirard 75006 
103 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 
25 Rue Pérignon, 75015 


Pierre Hermé
4 Rue Cambon, 75001 
39 Avenue de l'Opéra, 75002
4 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 
18 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
72 rue Bonaparte Paris, 75006
89 Boulevard Malesherbes, 75008
58 Avenue Paul Doumer, 75116


La Pâtisserie des Rêves 
93 Rue du Bac, 75007
19 Rue Poncelet, 75017
111 Rue de Longchamp, 75116


Cyril Lignac
133 Rue de Sèvres, 75006 
24 Rue Paul Bert, 75011
55 Boulevard Pasteur 75015 
2 Rue de Chaillot 75016






Café Verlet 
256 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 


5 Rue Villedo, 75001


Terres des Café
40 Rue des Blancs Manteaux, 75004
14 Rue Rambuteau


Cafe Loustic
40 Rue Chapon, 75003


Café Coutoume 
47, Rue de Babylone, 75007 


La Fontaine de Belleville
31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 75010 



Sorbet and Ice cream



31 Rue St Louis en l'Île, 75004 


La Fabrique Givrée
26 Rue Soufflot, 75005






Jacques Genin 
133 Rue de Turenne, 75003 (with tea salon)
27 Rue de Varenne, 75007 (shop without salon)


Pierre Hermé
4 Rue Cambon, 75001 
39 Avenue de l'Opéra, 75002
4 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 
18 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
72 rue Bonaparte Paris, 75006
89 Boulevard Malesherbes, 75008
58 Avenue Paul Doumer, 75116


Henri Le Roux Chocolatier
1 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006 


Arnaud Larher
93 rue de Seine – 75006
53 rue Caulaincourt – 75018
57 rue Damrémont – 75018


69 rue du Bac, 75007 


Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse 
40 Rue de la Roquette, 75012






51 Rue de Grenelle, 75007


13 rue Poncelet 750017








Epicerie Roellinger
51 bis Rue Sainte-Anne, 75002






Mariage Frères
90 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 
35 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004
13 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 
260 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 


Palais des Thés 
64, rue Vieille du Temple 75003 
61 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006
18 Rue Tronchet, 75008 
13 Rue des Martyrs, 75009
21 Rue de l'Annonciation, 75016



Perfume and Beauty



Odeur de Sainteté (perfume)
15 Galerie Montpensier, Jardin du Palais Royal, 75001


Nose (perfume)
20 Rue Bachaumont, 75002


l’Officine Universelle Buly 1803 (apothecary)
6 Rue Bonaparte, 75006



Multi-label Boutiques & 
Concept Stores



10 rue Hérold, 75001 
40 rue de Sévigné, 75003 
10 rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008


107 Rivoli (design)
107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001


111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003


Broken Arm
12 Rue Perrée, 75003



Design / objects /
home goods / gifts



Astier de Villatte (ceramics)
173 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001 
16 Rue de Tournon, 75006 


Au petit bonheur la chance (vintage knickknack delights)
13 Rue St Paul, 75004


Galerie Sentou (design store)
29 rue François-Miron  75004
26 Boulevard Raspail, 75007


Cire Trudon (deluxe candles)
11 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
78 Rue de Seine, 75006


Fleux (design concept store)
39 + 43 + 52 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004


Deyrolle (taxidermy)
46 Rue du Bac, 75007


La Trésorerie (home decor)
11 Rue du Château d'Eau, 75010






Marché des Enfants Rouges (daily)
39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003


Marché biologique Raspail (only on Sunday)
Boulevard Raspail, between Rue de Rennes and Rue du Cherche-Midi


Marché Aligre (daily)
Rue d'Aligre et, Place d'Aligre, 75012






Maison de Victor Hugo
6, place des Vosges 75004


Institut du monde arabe
1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005


Musée de Cluny
28 Rue du Sommerard, 75005


Musée Jacquemart-André
158 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008


Musée Nissim de Camondo 
63 Rue de Monceau, 75008


Musée Gustave Moreau 
14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld, 75009


Fondation Cartier
261 Boulevard Raspail, 75014


Institut Giacometti (reservation required)
5 Rue Victor Schoelcher, 75014


Maison La Roche (Fondation Le Corbusier)
10, square du Docteur Blanche, 75016



Based in New York and Paris, EUGENIA LAI is a former associate director at David Zwirner and R & Company. She is an editor at Screenslate.