BREAKFAST

Hermanas Arce

Our top place at the moment, no doubt, is a beautiful and peaceful locale run by sisters Sol and Elena Arce. We go there weekly for breakfast, to have a mid-morning coffee, for lunch, and even for meetings. It’s impossible to choose between their savory dishes and their sweets, but our favorite is sourdough toast, either with tomato and oil – the essential Spanish breakfast – or with labneh and quince jam. The pastries change frequently, depending on what they’ve cooked that day – if you’re lucky, you’ll get to try their apple pies or their pavlova with berries. And get plenty of coffee. C. Marqués de Monasterio, 6, Centro, 28004

Casa Neutrale

This establishment serves specialty coffee roasted by Toma Café, accompanied by fresh-baked pastries and light dishes. The coffee is good, but if you like great matcha, this is the place. For breakfast, our favorite dish is Turkish eggs with Greek yogurt, paprika oil, and sourdough bread. If you ever go for dinner at their new joint, Casa Música, and eat meat, go for the flank steak with fresh fries. C. de Regueros, 13, Centro, 28004 a

LUNCH

Barrutia y El Nueve

A classic taberna madrileña, and probably the place we’ve been most often with collectors, curators, and friends, both to eat and and for a wine after an opening at the gallery. Over a century old, it’s one of the few spots in the Justicia neighborhood that still maintains its traditional spirit. Every house-made item on their menu is delicious – never a given at places that claim history as a proxy for quality. Lunch is usually a set menu, while our dinner favorites are the truffled Spanish omelette and the tender peas with Iberian secret, egg yolk, and yakitori. The seasoned tomato salad is always a yes. If you go, be sure to say you’re coming from us! C. de Sta. Teresa, 9, Centro, 28004 a

Pacífico

Guilty pleasure here, a perfect place for a quick smash burger at the bar, sitting on overturned Coca-Cola crates. We eat there often, especially on installation days, after twelve hours of nonstop work on gallery productions. There are only three options, but there may as well be just one – the Pacífico, of course with French fries. C. del Conde de Xiquena, 2, Centro, 28004

Fismuler

Fismuler is widely celebrated for its innovative approach to traditional Spanish cuisine. Opened in 2016 by Nino Redruello and Patxi Zumárraga, both graduates of the prestigious El Bulli culinary school, its menu shares in the contemporary vogue of emphasizing seasonal ingredients. Our favorite plato principal and postre are, respectively, the milanesa and the cheesecake – scorched like a flan, it’s supposedly the best in the capital. C. de Sagasta, 29, Chamberí, 28004

COFFEE BREAK

La Duquesita

Founded in 1914 in Alonso Martínez, La Duquesita it has become an iconic establishment in the city, known for its cakes, croissants, puff pastry. It’s our go-to for the team’s birthday cakes – our favorites are yuzu, cheese, and lemon. C. de Fernando VI, 2, Centro, 28004 a

ACID Bakehouse

A minimalist coffee shop and bakery known for its sourdough breads and cinnamon rolls, (though we like the cardamom buns more!). Their second brick-and-mortar, in barrio Chueca, retains the essence of flagship, with a relaxed atmosphere and beautiful furniture. Another plus: It’s next to Gion, a lovely shop selling Japanese clothing and objects. More still: Their new natural wine restaurant, GOTA, is full for the best reasons – be sure to make a reservation. C. de la Magdalena, 27, Centro, 28012

DINNER

Mune Pelayo

We usually go for dinner with collectors or order takeout when we’re hosting at our homes. We always order the tabbouleh, the mutabal, and the orange and beet salad. If you want something more substantial, try the kabab karaz or their hot mezzes. C. de Pelayo, 57, Centro, 28004

Bodegas La Ardosa

This historic chain of 19th-century taverns is named for a vineyard area near Consuegra, in Toledo province. In our opinion, it serves the best Spanish omelette in the gallery’s neighborhood. You can have a quick bite standing at the bar, but if you walk past it (not the door – past the bar), you’ll enter a dining room. It took us awhile to realize, even though we’ve been eating there since forever. Just a tip – don’t try to go between 14h30 and 15h30. C. de Colón, 13, Centro, 28004 / C. de Sta Engracia, 70, Chamberí, 28010

BOCADO

Five minutes in the other direction, there’s BOCADO. During the day, “Lado A” operates as a cantina for platitos – different cheese toasties, more really good milanesa – and great natural wines. At 20h, they switch over to a simple burger joint as “Lado B,” with the modest flair of sweet-potato fries. They don’t take reservations, so you’ll have to go there, loiter, and cross your fingers. It’s definitely worth the wait. C. de Sta. Teresa, 1, Centro, 28004a

NIGHT OUT

Bar Cock

Among the most iconic bars in Madrid, it was the place to be back in the 80s, during the countercultural Movida Madrileña. We can’t count the number of nights we’ve spent there – even the classic cocktails are much more sophisticated, certainly than they were in 1921 (way before espresso martini and margaritas). There’s at least one party held there during every ARCO, but it’s a gathering spot year-round for different generations. Rumors and legends abound, too, but no telling – you’ll have to go see for yourself. C. de la Reina, 16, Centro, 28004a

Bar Trafalgar

Bar Trafalgar is a stylish, very contemporary bar on the Plaza de Olavide. Warm and dim, it’s a popular hangout for both locals and out-of-towners. The bar offers delicious, market-fresh tapas and pintxos, and the sommeliers are excellent; we’ve been into the Godello for white and Garnacha and Macabeo for reds of late. There’s also a black-felt pool table. If you have another stop in you on Friday night, the Sala Clamores next door hosts a fire hip-hop session called DaBasemnt. C. de Alburquerque, 14, Chamberí, 28010a

Chin Chin

Spanish, of course, for “cheers,” this is a buzzy cocktail bar nestled in studenty Malasaña. The bar offers a nice curation of classic cocktails (as you can tell, our libations of choice), and there’s always someone DJing decently. The interior has been thoughtfully curated, featuring jacquard wallpaper and quirky, cat-patterned ceilings. If it looks a bit extra, it’s also a place where you can actually hear your date talking, ideally over a vodka sour. C. de Andrés Borrego, 8, Centro, 2800 a

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ARCOmadrid
IFEMA
5 – 9 Mar 2025

Manuel Solano, “Egogénesis” &
Miriam Inez da Silva, curated by Cristiano Raimondi
Travesía Cuatro, Madrid
6 Mar – 15 May 2025