Going Out in Paris

A croissant

The City of Lights needs no introduction, synonymous as it is with fine food, fashion, and architecture. Instead of burying yourself at art fairs, go enjoy Eugenia Lai’s treasure trove of tips, organized by arondissement.

BREAKFAST

Claus

Claus
2 Rue Clément, 75006

The temple of breakfast. The only place in Paris that serves breakfast all day long. Enjoy your viennoiseries with artisanal jam, homemade muesli, and fluffy scrambled eggs in a beautiful space designed by DIMORESTUDIO’s alum Fabrizio Casiraghi.

Poilâne Bakery

Poilâne Bakery
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006
38 Rue Debelleyme, 75003
49 Boulevard de Grenelle, 75015

This is France's most famous bakery. Restaurants across the country even advertise the fact that they too serve this king of breads. Locals queue for fresh country miches , flaky-crusted apple tarts, and buttery shortbread biscuits.

La Fontaine de Belleville

La Fontaine de Belleville
31-33, Rue Juliette-Dodu, 75010

At this charming café owned by the beloved roaster Belleville Brûlerie, take a seat on their sun-drenched terrace and enjoy excellent coffee with a tartine, soft-boiled eggs with "soldiers", or homemade muesli with fruit.

Du Pain et des Idées

Du Pain et des Idées
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010

My absolute favorite bakery in Paris. Everything is delicious, but if you must choose, try their wildly popular pain des amies and heavenly escargot pastries.

Chambelland

Chambelland
14 Rue Ternaux, 75011

A gluten-free bakery that will delight even hardcore bread lovers.

Blé Sucré

Blé Sucré
7 Rue Antoine Vollon, 75012

Start your day with the best madeleines and kouign-amann in town with a cafe au lait.

Boulangerie Maison M'Seddi

Boulangerie Maison M'Seddi
215 Boulevard Raspail, 75014

Winner of this year's best baguette competition, and just steps away from Fondation Cartier and Institut Giacometti.

LUNCH

Toraya

Toraya
10 Rue Saint-Florentin, 75001

As the oldest Japanese confectionary that established itself in Paris in the 1980s, this is a beautiful shop and tea salon that serves refined and delicious bento lunches and exquisite traditional pastries.

Le Bougainville

Le Bougainville
5 Rue de la Banque, 75002

It’s hard to find bistros like this in Paris anymore. One of my all-time favorites, this place serves solid, hearty, classic bistro fares. The decor has remained unchanged since the 50s, with a Formica bar and tables, red faux leather banquettes, and old-school parquet flooring.

Le Petit Vendôme

Le Petit Vendôme
8 Rue Capucines, 75002

Another no-frills Formica bistro that serves reliable hearty bistro fares such as duck confit and pork trotters, but their signature dishes are their Auvergne sandwiches which they call casse-croûte and are made with a choice of garlic saucisson, country ham, Saint-Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert, andouille, or liver confit…

Grillé

Grillé
15 Rue Saint-Augustin, 75002

At this joint by Le Chateaubriand alum Frédéric Peneau, gourmet kebab is offered with homemade spelt bread and meat from the star butcher Hugo Desnoyer. But the real star of the kebab is the sauce – slather yours with the white (fromage frais and horseradish) or green (green tomato and spicy pepper).

Le Pas Sage

Le Pas Sage
145 Rue Saint-Denis, 75002

Charming little restaurant with an inventive menu in the elegant Passage du Grand Cerf.

Miznon

Miznon
22 Rue des Ecouffes, 75004

I am addicted to this Israeli eatery. The charred whole cauliflower, fish sandwiches (both the poisson épicé and the poisson doré ) and boeuf bourguignon are to die for.

Tavline

Tavline
25 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004

"Tavline" means spices in Hebrew and that's the focus of this cosy restaurant that serves dishes such as roasted beets drizzled with honey cream or tahini, shakshukas sprinkled with feta, and a hearty leg of lamb with slow-cooked shallots and ras el hanout .

Breizh Café

Breizh Café
109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004

True Breton-style galettes made with the famous Bordier butter, better known as the best butter in the world.

Avant comptoir de la mer

Avant comptoir de la mer
3 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 75006

Seafood bar with a relaxed old-school atmosphere that serves creative tapas-style dishes such as fish ceviche with green apples and cucumber; tuna tartare with raspberry, buckwheat and coriander; and Palamos shrimp carpaccio.

Urfa Durum

Urfa Durum
58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010

A hole-in-the-wall sandwich joint that serves exceptional Kurdish sandwiches – simple but delicious. Arugula, red onion, tomato, and perfectly grilled lamb served in freshly baked flat bread.

DINNER

Juveniles

Juveniles
47 Rue de Richelieu, 75001

Unfussy, well-prepared, French cooking using market-fresh ingredients.

La Bourse et La Vie

La Bourse et La Vie
12 Rue Vivienne, 75002

Daniel Rose's twenty-nine-seat eatery near the Palais Royal serves modern takes on French bistroclassics such as pot-au-feu and steak frites.

Restaurant L'Ilôt

Restaurant L'Ilôt
4 Rue de la Corderie, 75003

Head to this little charming seafood restaurant in the trendy northern Marais neighbourhood for shellfish – fresh, smoked, or marinated – or opt for a big plateau des fruits de mer to share. The extra bonus? You won't pay Parisian prices.

Chez Nenesse

Chez Nenesse
17 Rue de Saintonge, 75003

One of my favourite traditional bistros that serves classic hearty bistro fares such as cassolette of snails, Lyonnais quenelles , braised calf's head with gribiche sauce (made of chopped boiled eggs, gherkins, capers, and herbs), and a killer pear charlotte .

Les Enfants Rouges

Les Enfants Rouges
9 Rue de Beauce, 75003

A small cosy bistro in the Marais that serves seasonally inspired Franco-Japanese fare.

Sauvage

Sauvage
55 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006

An intimate and cheerful neo-bistro that has a uncompromising natural wine selection and a surprising seasonal menu that changes daily.

Mercerie Mullot

Mercerie Mullot
19 rue Bréa, 75006

Only blocks away from the Luxembourg Park, this cosy charming restaurant serves some of the best and freshest seafood in Paris.

Le Pantruche

Le Pantruche
3 Rue Victor Massé, 75009

One of the best modern bistros in Paris turning out dishes like celery root soup, oyster tartare, and a standout côte de cochon .

Restaurant Belle Maison

Restaurant Belle Maison
4 Rue de Navarin, 75009

Named after a beach on the Ile d’Yeu, this trendy breezy neo-bistro serves creative seafood-focussed dishes such as sea urchin scrambled eggs, ceviche of John Dory dressed with blood orange and arugula pesto, and crab cannelloni infused with ginger, lime, and tom kha.

Abri

Abri
92 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010

A pocket-size restaurant with an open kitchen run a by a Japanese chef trained at some of France's top restaurants (Taillevent, Agape, Robuchon) serving creative French dishes with a Japanese flair.

Septime

Septime
80 Rue de Charonne, 75011

One of the hottest tables in Paris serving delicious market-driven contemporary French dishes with minimalist descriptions such as “Line-Caught Tuna/Raspberries/Tomato Water” and “Pigeon/Beets/Morello Cherries".

Le Servan

Le Servan
32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011

A chic beloved neo-bistro run by Tatiana Levha, the most exciting female chef in Paris, serving French classic cuisine with unexpected twists.

Do et Riz

Do et Riz
31 Rue de Cotte, 75012

A charming Vietnamese canteen that offers a roster of classics using ingredients sourced daily from the nearby Aligre Market. Either make a reservation or be prepared to queue out into the street.

Dersou

Dersou
21 Rue Saint-Nicolas, 75012

This small trendy restaurant with an open kitchen offers inventive and bold Franco-Japanese tasting menus with cocktail pairings.

Le Cette

Le Cette
7 Rue Campagne Première, 75014

A charming bistro with simple, tasteful decor run by a Japanese chef who pays homage to traditional bistro cooking.

Restaurant Quedubon

Restaurant Quedubon
22 Rue du Plateau, 75019

Near the beautiful Parc des Buttes Chaumont, QueduBon is a bistro, a wine bar and a cave all in one. It serves exceptional hearty offal-focussed French classics accompanied by an impressive wine list populated by natural wines, which are all the rage in Paris these days.

Le Baratin

Le Baratin
3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020

A cheerful little bistro that's become a Belleville institution serves hearty and heartfelt fares with a twist. It also has an amazing organic wine list.

Les Grands Bains

Les Grands Bains
14 Rue Denoyez, 75020

With an ever-changing chalkboard menu of small plates and another impressive natural wine list, this laid-back restaurant is great for sharing.

PASTRIES

Patisserie Tomo (Franco-Japanese)

Patisserie Tomo

Patisserie Tomo (Franco-Japanese)
11 Rue Chabanais, 75002

Jacques Genin
133 Rue de Turenne, 75003 (with tea salon)
27 Rue de Varenne, 75007 (shop without salon)

Carl Marletti
51 Rue Censier, 75005

Sadaharu Aoki (Franco-Japanese)
35 rue de Vaugirard 75006
103 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
25 Rue Pérignon, 75015

Pierre Hermé
4 Rue Cambon, 75001
39 Avenue de l'Opéra, 75002
4 Rue de Bretagne, 75003
18 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
72 rue Bonaparte Paris, 75006
89 Boulevard Malesherbes, 75008
58 Avenue Paul Doumer, 75116

La Pâtisserie des Rêves
93 Rue du Bac, 75007
19 Rue Poncelet, 75017
111 Rue de Longchamp, 75116

Cyril Lignac
133 Rue de Sèvres, 75006
24 Rue Paul Bert, 75011
55 Boulevard Pasteur 75015
2 Rue de Chaillot 75016

COFFEE

Dakota Johnson leaving Café Verlet

Dakota Johnson leaving Café Verlet

Café Verlet
256 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001

Telescope
5 Rue Villedo, 75001

Terres des Café
40 Rue des Blancs Manteaux, 75004
14 Rue Rambuteau

Cafe Loustic
40 Rue Chapon, 75003

Café Coutoume
47, Rue de Babylone, 75007

La Fontaine de Belleville
31-33 Rue Juliette Dodu, 75010

SORBET & ICE CREAM

Berthillon Glacier

Berthillon
31 Rue St Louis en l'Île, 75004

La Fabrique Givrée
26 Rue Soufflot, 75005

CHOCOLATE

Jacques Genin

Jacques Genin
133 Rue de Turenne, 75003 (with tea salon)
27 Rue de Varenne, 75007 (shop without salon)

Pierre Hermé
4 Rue Cambon, 75001
39 Avenue de l'Opéra, 75002
4 Rue de Bretagne, 75003
18 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
72 rue Bonaparte Paris, 75006
89 Boulevard Malesherbes, 75008
58 Avenue Paul Doumer, 75116

Henri Le Roux Chocolatier
1 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006

Arnaud Larher
93 rue de Seine – 75006
53 rue Caulaincourt – 75018
57 rue Damrémont – 75018

Chapon
69 rue du Bac, 75007

Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse
40 Rue de la Roquette, 75012

CHEESE

Barthelemy

Barthelemy
51 Rue de Grenelle, 75007

Alleosse
13 rue Poncelet 750017

SPICES

Epicerie Roellinger

Epicerie Roellinger
51 bis Rue Sainte-Anne, 75002

TEA

Mariage Frères

Mariage Frères
90 Rue Montorgueil, 75002
35 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004
13 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
260 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008

Palais des Thés
64, rue Vieille du Temple 75003
61 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006
18 Rue Tronchet, 75008
13 Rue des Martyrs, 75009
21 Rue de l'Annonciation, 75016

PERFUME AND BEAUTY

Odeur de Sainteté

Odeur de Sainteté (perfume)
15 Galerie Montpensier, Jardin du Palais Royal, 75001

Nose (perfume)
20 Rue Bachaumont, 75002

l’Officine Universelle Buly 1803 (apothecary)
6 Rue Bonaparte, 75006

MULTI-LABEL BOUTIQUES

L'Eclaireur

L'Eclaireur
10 rue Hérold, 75001
40 rue de Sévigné, 75003
10 rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008

107 Rivoli (design)
107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001

Merci
111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003

Broken Arm
12 Rue Perrée, 75003

DESIGN

Astier de Villatte

Astier de Villatte (ceramics)
173 Rue Saint Honoré, 75001
16 Rue de Tournon, 75006

Au petit bonheur la chance (vintage knickknack delights)
13 Rue St Paul, 75004

Galerie Sentou (design store)
29 rue François-Miron 75004
26 Boulevard Raspail, 75007

Cire Trudon (deluxe candles)
11 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
78 Rue de Seine, 75006

Fleux (design concept store)
39 + 43 + 52 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004

Deyrolle (taxidermy)
46 Rue du Bac, 75007

La Trésorerie (home decor)
11 Rue du Château d'Eau, 75010

MARKETS

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Marché des Enfants Rouges (daily)
39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003

Marché biologique Raspail (only on Sunday)
Boulevard Raspail, between Rue de Rennes and Rue du Cherche-Midi

Marché Aligre (daily)
Rue d'Aligre et, Place d'Aligre, 75012

UNDER-THE-RADAR MUSEUMS

Maison Victor Hugo in Paris

Maison de Victor Hugo
6, place des Vosges 75004

Institut du monde arabe
1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005

Musée de Cluny
28 Rue du Sommerard, 75005

Musée Jacquemart-André
158 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008

Musée Nissim de Camondo
63 Rue de Monceau, 75008

Musée Gustave Moreau
14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld, 75009

Fondation Cartier
261 Boulevard Raspail, 75014

Institut Giacometti (reservation required)
5 Rue Victor Schoelcher, 75014

Maison La Roche (Fondation Le Corbusier)
10, square du Docteur Blanche, 75016

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