Jaime Chu is a critic from Hong Kong and a former contributing editor at Spike.

"One way to become a regular is by showing up to places at consistently odd times. This was how I came to know Sandeep and Gagan at their bar, Tell Camellia, in the basement of a shiny new building that went up last year on the slopes of Hong Kong’s SoHo. I ended up there for the first time on a very dark day last October, the day the mask ban aimed at the anti-government protests took effect. The subway closed early (again). Barely anyone was going out. The city practically curfewed itself."