A week in Cologne among leather relics, Fassbinder ghosts, museum directors, queer courts, and potato chips on pizza. Institutional critique turns camp; dignity lasts about an hour.

Ranging from opera sets to iPad screens across hundreds of paintings, a Paris blockbuster edifies the British artist’s ability to make visible – yet never violate – intimacy.

Flamboyance, mysticism, grungy bohemia: even under the air of war commercial and off-space art – not to mention the raves – are thriving in the Georgian capital.